The East Neuk Good Beer Guide

The East Neuk Good Beer Guide

Turn the clock back 20 years and you certainly wouldn’t have come to Scotland for the quality of its beers.

What a transformation!

Consider this. In recent years the "Champion Beer of Britain" has twice been awarded to a Scots brewer. In 2002 the title went to the Caledonian Brewery for its eminently drinkable Deuchars IPA session beer, while the following year, Harviestoun’s Bitter and Twisted scooped the award.

Today most Scottish pubs persist in vending fizzy concoctions such as Tartan Special, McEwans Export and Tennents Lager (great advertising, sod all taste). However there are some gems of pubs to be found in the East Neuk and environs which serve not only great Scots beers but some of the better English ones too.

Here are some great Scots beers to look out for in these cracking East Neuk pubs.

BREWER BEER

Caledonian Brewery, Edinburgh Deuchars IPA, 80/-

Houston Brewery, Renfrew Peters Well, Killellan, Barochan, Blonde Bombshell

Inveralmond Brewery, Perth Independence, Thrappledouser, Ossian, Lia Fail (gaelic for ‘stone of destiny’ -orgasmic taste!)

Harviestoun Brewery, Dollar Bitter & Twisted, Schiehallion (wonderful Scottish lager), Ptarmigan

Orkney Brewey, Sandwick Dark Island, Raven, Red Macgregor. (They also brew Skullsplitter (8.3% ABV) which is regrettably rarely to be found on the mainland)

Cairngorm Brewery, Aviemore Sheeepshagger (fun to ask for !)

Black Isle Brewery, Munlochy Red Kite

Arran Brewery, Brodick Arran Ale, Arran Dark, Arran Blond

Broughton Brewery, Biggar Greenmantle, Merlin’s Ale, 80/-, The Ghillie, Black Douglas, Scottish Oatmeal

Atlas Brewery, Kinlochleven Latitude, Three Sisters, Nimbus, Blizzard

Isle of Skye Brewery Red Cuillin, Hebridean Gold

PUB LOCATIONS Return to top^^

All the pubs in the East Neuk are welcoming to strangers and are generally dog-friendly too. In St Andrews the beasts are pretty well verboten.

For the benefit of visitors from foreign parts (ie south of the Forth Bridge) it may be instructive to explain the differences between pubs which sell real ale and those which do not. As a general rule of thumb, the use of the F-word and the C-word are not encouraged in real ale pubs; in those which do not serve real ale their use is actually mandatory and you will emerge cursing like Billy Connolly at a live show.

Most pubs are open all day and stay open until midnight.

Pittenweem

Unfortunately, real ale is not to be had in any of Pittenweem's pubs which comprise:

West End Bar: The usual selection of McEwans 60/-, 70/- and 80/-, Tartan Special and John Smiths Smooth. The emphasis is on drinking and socialising so there are no musical or gaming distractions.
Larachmhor: Located within a short 50 yard stagger from the front door, the Larach changed hands in 2003 and is now Swiss-owned. Formerly a vibrant fishermens' pub and the only pub on the harbourside, the Larach was refurbished in 2003 and (I suspect) modelled on the lounge at Bern Airport. While it remains a friendly locals' pub, the place has been mismanaged for the last years and trade has steadily declined. The Swiss apparently want out but are struggling to find a buyer for a pub in such dire straits.
Anchor Inn: Public and lounge bars serving McEwans 70/-, Tartan Special and Tennents. Large TV, sound/karaoke system and fruit machine in public bar.

Anstruther Return to top^^

Dreel Tavern: A little gem of a pub, the Dreel is now run by Jeanette Swankie. 3 guest ales are always available and expertly kept. Beers recently discovered on the bar include Hook Norton, Youngs Special, Reverend James, Hogs Back T.E.A, Abbott, Bombardier and Scottish Oatmeal.There's a long friendly bar, separate pool and dining rooms as well as a beer garden overlooking the Dreel Burn. Free Scoobie snacks.
This plaque is bolted to the pub wall, commemorating the event (tourist version) concerning the infant peripatetic Scots king James V, which inspired leading local onanists to form their infamous "Beggar's Benison" club dedicated to sex in general and self-abuse in particular.
Ship Tavern: Great location on the harbour front next to the Anstruther Fish Bar. One real ale is always on – usually Deuchars IPA. During the summer a second real ale is added. Pool table in the back room which is also used for live music or karaoke in the summer.

Anstruther has several other pubs the best of which are:

The Royal: Local's pub. Tennents and pool table in separate room.
The Masonic : McEwans, Tennents, Belhaven and Boddies. Real fire, gaming machine, TV and hi-fi, not forgetting the stuffed cats.
The Salutation : The Sallie has the feel of an American Sports Bar. Large screen showing Sky Sports in main bar, table football table and gaming machine, pool room with 2 tables, separate lounge with pull down megascreen.
The Boat: In Cellardyke, the Boat is a typical local but friendly with it. Tetley-Carlsberg fare and pool table.
The Haven: Overlooking Cellardyke Harbour has a cocktail bar and beer garden.
And on the Pittenweem Road, the Craw's Nest Hotel which serves Carlsberg and Calders.

Crail Return to top^^

Golf Hotel Crail: Historic hotel dating back to 17-something. The single guest ale changes frequently and has recently included Old Speckled Hen, Abbott, London Pride, Courage Directors and SA Brain's Winter Fire. Small bar with dartboard and an open fire in winter. Live folk music sessions.

There's also the East Neuk Hotel Lounge and public bars serving Tennents and Stella. Pool table, TVs, jukebox and games machine in public bar. Piped music - pop in the public bar, Bing Crosby in lounge.

Kingsbarns

The Barns: The Barns is an upmarket steak house with cocktail bar and lounge. Present ownership is unknown as the place was bought by Swallow Hotels in 2004 which then went into receivership in 2006. Wall mounted TV in the bar tuned to Sky Sports. Newspapers are provided and dogs are tolerated in the cocktail bar. The Barns is primarily geared up for golf tourists (feeding off the adjacent Kingsbarns Golf Course) and one of the three double rooms will set you back about £150 a night.

Elie Return to top^^

Ship Inn: Superbly located on Elie's beach this pub is home to the yachty crowd in summer. Outside seating area overlooking the beach and dogs receive Scooby snacks. Deuchars IPA on tap.
Golf Tavern: Great location overlooking the 4th fairway of Elie Golf Course. Serves Deuchars IPA plus one other ale, usually Belhaven or Caledonian 80/-. Although there is a TV behind the bar tuned to sport and a large wall-mounted flatscreen in the seating area, noisy distractions such as jukebox and gaming machine are located in the separate pool room behind the bar. The pub has recently been refurbished with a new kitchen serving a range of good value food. An added attraction of the 19th Hole is the provision of a courtesy car at weekends to collect your party and return you home after your evening drinks or meal.
Station Buffet: If you don't fancy chatting with the would-be matelots in the Ship Inn or hobnobbing with Edinburgh's bankers and lawyers in the Golf Tavern, this is the place to go. With a clientele of perfectly chattable folk, the Buffet was proclaimed the Sunday Mail Pub of the Year in 2008 and if anyone suggests this has anything to do with Alex Bowman's sister Edith of Radio 1 repute or his parents who used to run the Craw's Nest, this would have to classed as idle speculation. Regrettably only Deuchars generally on tap. The main bar has a big plasma screen TV and you have to go through a chicane to get to the loos and the games room which contains a pool table, jukebox and gaming machine. Full of b/w railway pictures and a very fine front door proclaiming the place's original use - Braid's Licenced Restaurant..

Lower Largo

Railway Inn: A little gem in historic Lower Largo, just yards from the beach. 3 real ales are generally on offer - usually Bitter & Twisted, London Pride and Deuchars IPA sometimes one other. The beer is superbly kept and served by some of the friendliest barmaids you’ll find in the East Neuk - Maggie, Barbara and Christine. The theme, unsurprisingly, is railways. The pub is in the lee of the Largo Viaduct which looms above it. Try it. You won't be disappointed.

Crusoe Hotel: Located opposite the Railway Inn on Lower Largo harbour, this former granary offers fine vistas of the Forth and Lothian coast. Standard beer fare plus one real ale, usually Deuchars IPA. Outside seating area in the summer on the harbour wall. There's also an exhibition room dedicated to the history of the real Robinson Crusoe - Alexander Selkirk.

Other pubs in Largo, Lundin Links, Kilconquhar, Colinsburgh and St Monans:

Hogan's Bar, Lundin Links: A typical Scottish locals' bar.
Lundin Links Hotel: Geared up for American golfers. Single bar with nice restaurant, lounges and function suites. No real ales and a bit expensive.
Upper Largo Hotel: The place is geared more to food than to drink. There’s a small bar on 2 levels. No real ales are on offer but they do have a choice of 28 malts. Probably the best "High Tea" in the East Neuk. If you’re unfamiliar with this bizarre Scottish phenomenon read the entry in the Good Food Guide.
Kinneuchar Inn, Kilconquhar: serves no real ales but is a cracking little pub. Belhaven Best and Calders 80/- on tap and bottles of Newcastle Brown in the chiller. Great for Trivial Pursuit (available) on a quiet night.
Balcarres Hotel, Colinsburgh: Probably worth avoiding. I played in a pool match there and my dog got stuck to the floor.
Auld Inn, Colinsburgh: Tiny local's pub serving Belhaven with pool table and jukebox.
Mayview Hotel, St Monans: Large lounge and public bars with extensive restaurant, bar snack and takeaway menus.

St Andrews Return to top^^

Central Bar:

Located at the eastern end of Market Street the Central is the only pub locally to have been awarded the Cask Marque. As I understand it, inspectors from Cask Marque visit the pub incognito and assess the beers for appearance, temperature, aroma and taste. All the beers must achieve a score of 16/20 or greater to gain the award. Given the consistent quality of the Central’s beers this award comes as no surprise. Some of the best British beers are to be found here and owing to high turnover, pleasant surprises are virtually guaranteed. Recent guest ales have included Blonde Bombshell, Landlord and Spitfire. One of Houston's beers is generally always available. Scotsman newspaper provided and outside seating sporadically available.

For more information on Cask Marque (Slogan - For pubs which serve the perfect pint) visit www.cask-marque.co.uk

Whey Pat:

Located by the West Port, this Belhaven Breweries-owned pub is an oasis for real beer connoisseurs. Few distractions are provided enabling the connoisseur to enjoy the 3 guest ales which are always on tap and socialise with his/her fellow patrons. As at the Central the high beer turnover makes for frequent pleasant discoveries. Some recent finds - Pride, Black Sheep, Spitfire, Lia Fail, Flowers, Barochan, Bitter&Twisted and Thrappledouser.

Droothy Neebors: Located by the West Port, Droothy Neebors is a friendly and relaxed town centre pub, owned by Belhaven Brewery. It's light and airy at the front with comfy chairs in the window and progressively darker and gloomier the further you go in. You usually have the choice of 2 or 3 real ales. Newspapers are provided - 2 broadsheets and 2 redtops to cater for all intellectual tastes.

Criterion: The Cri, as it's locally known, has now reverted to its former name and is a superb real ale pub with outside seating continental-style. Main snacks available comprise toasties with a wide selection of fillings. Newspapers provided.

Aikman’s Cellar Bar:

Tom serving at the Cellar Bar: Click for larger picture

The Cellar is now desperately in need of a lick of paint. In spite of this a good selection of real ales is always on offer although quality can be variable dependent on who is responsible for operations on the day. Recent offerings have included Ossian, St Andrews Ale, Three Sisters and Fireside. If you fancy a pint late at night, this is the venue for you as it’s the only pub in town with a late (1am) licence. It's heaving after midnight in term time and you may struggle to get to the bar. Folk music on Tuesdays and live bands several times a week.

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